Tag-Archive for ◊ Iquitos ◊

Author:
• Monday, March 19th, 2012

A guest post by Frank Perkins

The Iquitos Plaza de Armas in 1980

Iquitos is one of the more out of the way cities of the world and one of the few of its size with absolutely no road access. The only means of reaching it are by Amazon River boat, or by air. By air, it is hardly out of the way at all. It lies on an almost direct path between Lima and Miami. Some scheduled flights land there, offering a chance for a layover, and I seized on this opportunity on a business trip to Lima. The flight passes over miles of impenetrable jungle. Finally a few huts are visible just before the landing. Few outsiders visit Iquitos; when you get there you realize you are in a really isolated area.

I had arrived without a hotel reservation, or without much of an idea of what I was getting into, as my stopover was a last minute idea. I found a helpful cab driver who spoke a little English. He promised to help me locate a room, and we headed for the city. The cab didn’t have a trunk lid, but we loaded my bag anyway and were off. (Apparently there is a rule in Iquitos requiring missing body panels on taxisómy return cab was missing an entire fender.) The second try at a hotel turned up a quite acceptable room near the center of the city, small and not plush, but with the requisite air conditioner.

One thing you notice immediately is that Iquitos is very hot and humid. Once you accept the languid attitude the weather induces, it really isn’t bad, but it is definitely not invigorating. Iquitos was started as a rubber town, and thrived in its day. Now, many of its once-grand buildings are empty or only partially occupied. It is built on a bluff overlooking a huge sweeping curve in the Amazon, a good mile wide here, some 1000 miles from the mouth. Atop this bluff stands a little bar with big open windows overlooking the river and the bustling boat docks. The beer is cold, the atmosphere is relaxed, and the bar has what must be one of the oldest operating juke boxes in the world. I have a delightful photo of the smiling proprietor and the staff, standing in front of a colorful jaguar painted on the back-bar wall.

The Amazon River in front of Iquitos in 1980

The town square of Iquitos is a delight at sunset. It is built in the Spanish style, with a fountain in the center and walks crisscrossing the whole area. Rows of benches are available for the people who turn up to enjoy the relative coolness of the evening. Children play, families stroll, and lovers talk quietly. The low rays of the sun catch the church tower and turn it a beautiful shade of yellow-gold. Over it all the sky is a pale blue, speckled with clouds whose hue changes with the setting sun. Gradually the light fades and eventually you realize that it is dark and that the magic of sunset is over for the day.

Below the faded elegance of the transplanted European city on the bluff lies a completely different world, that of the native quarter on the lowlands by the river. The level of the Amazon River in the area varies by 15 or 20 feet over the course of the year, and the Indians live in the flood plain, in houses perched on stilts. In flood, the area is like a rustic Venice, with boats moored at the doors of the houses. In dry season, as during my visit, the water recedes to a few stagnant canals, and the area reeks of the mud flats and worse. Boats are unloaded over narrow planks laid on the mud, or sometimes by men wading through the soupy mixture. When they have heavy loads, they are guided and supported by helpers as they stagger through the mud. Pigs are unloaded by flinging them into the mud alongside the boat and letting them flounder ashore as best they can.

The port of the village of Belen in 1980

The houses have a curious charm. They are rough and mostly unpainted, but clearly bear a certain pride of ownership. Many have pots of colorful flowers hung on rickety railings; others have faded but attractively painted trim here and there.

Varied activity flows through the area. Children play, chickens scratch busily, and dogs lope along on dog business. On one corner, I watched while a group of men struggled to weigh a trussed and squealing pig on a suspended lever-type scale.
The market areas, on a level slightly above the residential district, have an assortment of fresh vegetables, strange looking fish from the river, and pots of bubbling stews.

I wandered through all this as a camera-toting tourist, trying to be unobtrusive. Of course this was impossible, as I was usually the only Caucasian in sight, but mostly I was granted the happy privilege of being ignored as I watched and photographed. I did not feel threatened, although I was clearly in an area not often frequented by outsiders.

It was incredible to think how quick and easy my physical transition had been from a jet plane plying between two major cities of the world and this place. Just as incredible was the huge distance this transition covered, measured in cultural differences. I suppose this warping of relative distances is one of the major characteristics of the modern world.

A Brief History Of Iquitos In 1980

Guest post by Frank Perkins

Hello, Bill Grimes here, reporting from Iquitos Peru in 2012. Frank emailed me the other day, surprised that the Amazon River was not where he had left it, churning along in front of Iquitos. I emailed him back that “That big muddy river meandered off on another course and let the Itaya River come through in it’s channel, but not before it’s erosion wore off at least two blocks on the waterfront of the city.”

I asked, “Would you consider posting an article in my blog with old photos about the history of Iquitos as you remember it?” This exert is from one of his books. To read more about Frank Perkins travels, click this link to his web site, www.frankperkins.com, and to purchase his ebooks, click this link to Smashwords-About Frank Perkins.

To learn more about the history of Iquitos and the upper Amazon click these links and read on…

The mysterious life and death of Dr. George Mott, in Iquitos, 1927

Follow The Course Of History on the restored Amazon River Boat Calvero, Since 1876

Steamships of the Rubber Boom, Recovering History In The Peruvian Amazon

The Oldest Boat In The Amazon

The Grand Tour, Loreto Peru, October 3rd, 1853

Franciso Orellana At The Confluence Of The Napo And Amazon Rivers


Dawn on the Amazon Captains Blog

Author:
• Saturday, January 28th, 2012

Three cheers, 21 gun salute, Lonely Planet gave Iquitos more love by naming our charming city to their Top Ten Best Value Destinations for 2012.

Best value does not mean cheapest because Iquitos shares the list with Japan, Northeastern United States, and San Fransisco.

Last year Lonely Planet included Iquitos in their list of Top 10 Cites To Visit In 2011. This year Iquitos is one of the top ten value destinations.

Lonely Planet also gives Dawn on the Amazon more love with the live link for Iquitos going to Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises. Thank you Lonely Planet. I love you too.

Here is what they say;

“If past years (or recessions) have sucked up your travel budget, plan smart and get more bang for your buck in these value destinations, from Lonely Planet…”

6. Iquitos, Peru

“Booking a five-day Amazon cruise from abroad can run to US00 per person, not including flights. That can be cut at least in half by dealing directly with folks in Iquitos – the world’s biggest city not reachable by road. Local outfits can tailor trips to venture into piranha fishing spots, look for pink dolphins in the wildlife-rich Allpahuayo Mishana National Reserve (stopping at native villages to mingle with Amazonians) or reach the rustic Otorongo Lodge on the Colombian border. Meanwhile, Iquitos is interesting in itself: Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower) fame came to build rubber baron’s mansions. The best time to visit is October or November, when it’s still dry but before summer crowds.”

“For examples of trips on offer, check out Dawn on the Amazon.”

Check out the full list of Lonely Planet’s Top 10 Best Value Destinations.

Iquitos is one of Lonely Planet’s Top 10 Best Value Destinations in 2012

Bill Grimes reporting from Iquitos Peru, a popular place to be. This story was picked up by Fox News, Huffington Post, and just about every travel web site on the planet. We are playing in the big time.

Lonely Planet, Great Amazon Raft Race One Of the Best Races To Watch Live;


Dawn on the Amazon Captains Blog

Author:
• Thursday, December 29th, 2011

Iquitos police in case of trouble…

Morona Police Station, Iquitos
Calle Morona 120, Iquitos.
Telephone: (065) 23-1123.
Attention: 24 hours.

Punchana Police Station
Av. de la Marina/28 de Julio.
Telephone: (065) 25-1970.
Attention: 24 hours.

Tourism Police – POLTUR Iquitos.
Calle Sargento Lores 834.
Telephone: (065) 24-2081.
Attention: 24 hours.

Iquitos Police In Case Of Trouble

Bill Grimes reporting from Iquitos Peru for you.


Dawn on the Amazon Captains Blog

Author:
• Monday, December 05th, 2011

Bigote, on the boulevard in front of the Dawn on the Amazon Cafe, with his latest carving, Evolution

Here we are on the boulevard of Iquitos again. This time with the master carver, Bigote, and his latest masterpiece, Evolution. Bigote and my son Mateo built and polished the two beautiful bars in the Amazon Explorers Club. They carved many intricate miniature tagua and seed art pieces together. Mateo graduated to master carver and has since expanded his art skills beyond the Master. But I digress. This photo is about Bigote, one of the characters you might meet on the boulevard. Bigote means mustache  in Spanish. He carves unique souvenirs for you.

Bill Grimes reporting from Iquitos, on the boulevard, in front of the Dawn on the Amazon Cafe.


Dawn on the Amazon Captains Blog

Author:
• Monday, November 28th, 2011

Iquitos map

This map of Iquitos Peru features the Dawn on the Amazon corner with the blue dot, located on the boulevard, overlooking the river, on the corner of the 1st block of Nauta, two blocks from the Plaza de Armas. The Dawn on the Amazon Cafe is underlined in blue. Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises, Dawn on the Amazon Explorers Club, and the offices of the United States Embassy Warden for Iquitos and the Amazon Golf Course are also located on the Dawn on the Amazon corner, marked by the blue dot. Stop in and say hi…

Bill Grimes reporting from Iquitos Peru, working out of the Dawn on the Amazon corner.


Dawn on the Amazon Captains Blog

Category: Rainforest Tours  | Tags: ,  | Leave a Comment
Author:
• Tuesday, November 08th, 2011

Guest post by Joe Plumb

It sounds almost impossible, but it’s true…a group of twelve young footballers, between the ages of 16-18yrs, travelled to the North East of England for a two-week football tour.  They had a punishing schedule, playing twelve matches in just fourteen days in the UK, against schools in Durham, Newcastle, Sunderland, Bishop Auckland, Darlington, Bedlington, Ashington, Hartlepool and Stockton-on-Tees, winning ten games and losing two, due to tiredness and adverse weather conditions which made it very difficult for the young  Loretans to show their innate talent.

The trip was organized as an intercultural exchange between schools in the North East of England and the work in Iquitos of Joe Plumb, Projects Coordinator of “The Peru Mission”. The lads were looked at by talent scouts from Newcastle United, Manchester United and Middlesbrough FC, and some valuable links were forged for future good relations between football scene in Loreto and the English league sides.

The young Peruvian footballers from “Club Deportivo Angamos Juventud Bellavista“, visited Manchester United’s training ground, Carrington, and met Ecuadorian signing Antonio Valencia, Michael Carrick; Korean player, Ji Sung Park and at Newcastle United, the Argentinian, Jonas Gutierrez, who all talked to them about the importance of studying, getting an education, staying out of trouble with alcohol, drugs or gangs, and not forgetting the values taught them by their parents and local communities. They spoke of the importance of being proud of your roots and the poverty you have progressed out of.

“It was great”, says Joe, “…that these successful professional footballers, massive role models for the young footballers, spoke so movingly to young lads from their own Latin American continent about the need for humility mixed with dignity, for responsibility and good citizenship, mentioning responsible parenthood, being sensible and responsible in their actions as regards all that the modern world offers young people…in their case, quick money, fame, drugs, girlfriends. Antonio Valencia spoke about his mother, his brothers and sisters back home in his barrio on the outskirts of Guayaquil, Ecuador, and said that he owed them everything and wanted to make them proud of him by showing people in Europe and the rest of the world that he was a serious, responsible, worldly-wise professional. Better than a thousand talks from me…”

The logistics.

Each of the schools we played against in the UK put up one thousand five hundred pounds for the air-fares and Minsteracres, a local Passionist monastery, gave us the use of their youth centre. We spent two nights in a YMCA too.

Food was provided by local people who made cakes, donated biscuits, bread, meat, fish, vegetables and fruit, as well as money which people donated to pay for a mini-bus to get ourselves around in. The main thing was to make sure the lads got a good plateful of rice (cooked with oil, salt and garlic) each day at lunchtime, preferably with chicken or fish, otherwise they were NOT happy-chaps. The schools invited us to lunch each day so we really only had to find the lads’ breakfast and evening meal. If rice wasn’t on the menu in the school, my wife, Gina Melissa, (who’s from Nauta and therefore makes rice just like at home), and myself, had to get up at 5:30am and rustle up a big pan-full of fried rice before we left for our day in a school, playing football and engaging in classes. If we didn’t, I think I’d have had a rebellion on my hands!

Awareness of Environmental and Human Rights Abuses.

In each school we also gave a presentation about Peru and in particular about Loreto-it’s beauty, its’ wealth of natural resources, its’ importance in the global picture and its’ needs and problems.

With the help of a young environmental rights lawyer, GianCarlo Martin Vasquez Flores, we showed a power-point presentation of about 10 minutes which highlighted the problems of contamination of the rivers by the oil companies, (affecting the indigenous peoples’ lifestyles, hunting and fishing), the problem of illegal wood-felling and exportation, the lack of a decent education or health-care system here and other related social problems. The footballers also exhibited a local folklore dance, “The Ayahuasca” or “The Anaconda” and talked about their lives, their families, their beliefs, and their aspirations for the future.    In smaller groups the students then got to know each other, despite the language barrier, and discussed the points of similarity and the differences between the two countries-these discussions touched upon faith and belief, social problems which affect both societies such as alienation of youth, marginalization of poorer sections of society, globalization and the multi-nationals, climate change and global warming, the drugs problem-importation/exportation, demand and production…the teachers in the school were amazed at how well-informed and concerned their own students were in these areas! It seems they are not given that much room to discuss their opinions about these issues in the National Curriculum in British schools!

Documents.

The British Embassy were very helpful with the visa process. We stayed in a large house belonging to some friends in Barranco and trained each day against the local district side whilst we had our interviews, waited for our visas to come through and for the flight date to the UK.

The Trip of a Lifetime

The young players suffered with the cold weather in the North of England, playing some games in the cold and rain wearing gloves, woolly hats and even scarves. They missed home, the tasty food of Loreto, their friends from the “barrio” and their girlfriends, although at the last-night party some friendships were made, as nostalgia took over and even now, one or two of the lads talk to their “English roses” of Messenger or FaceBook on a regular basis.  The girls in Lanchester and Consett area were particularly welcoming to the Peruvian footballers, and in a strange adaptation of “Panteleon y Las Visitadoras,” came to visit them at their lodgings on a few occasions, ostensibly to practice their Spanish!

The Birth of a South American Barrio Football Project

Joe Plumb, who is now the Honorary British Consul in Iquitos (Loreto Region), was parish priest of the parish of San Pedro Pescador in Bellavista, Nanay for eight years, from 2000-2008 and that’s where he decided that setting up a local barrio football team was a good option to keep youngsters out of trouble.
“I’d walk around the barrio and see the same young men lying in a hammock or sitting in a rocking chair in the middle of the day. At night, after playing a couple of games of football and winning a sol or two for their plate of “arroz chaufa con huevo” (fried rice and an egg), they’d be drinking cheap aguardiente (neat white spirit) in the disco-bars, getting into knife or machete fights, and despite being without work, they were often fathers by the age of sixteen or seventeen, to girls around the same age. The girls too, would then have to finish their secondary education to have their babies.
We got some of the local folk together to look at these issues and how we could maybe respond. It was mainly the fathers of these lads, and a few local businessmen in Bellavista, and we decided it had to be something that would enthuse the lads, so we started up a team which had been dormant for some years, “Club Deportivo Angamos Juventud Bellavista”.

I wrote to some friends in the UK to help with funding, we looked for some local assistance from businesses and got started, buying a football strip, boots, shin-pads, footballs, and finding a local coach.

The lads are from all over the city and beyond now. “We have a player from CaballoCocha, several from Nauta and a couple who are members of the Bora tribe from Padre Cocha. The majority are from Punchana, Bellavista, El Terminal, San Juan, Morona Cocha, etc…I find the best players, the most physically fit and tenacious are from the barrios” says Joe, who goes along to training most days to let the lads know that, as Club President, he’s keeping an eye on things.

In exchange for turning up for training each day for a month from 2pm-4pm, on the pitch at the back of the Regional Hospital, the lads receive some assistance with their studies.

“In seven years of running the Club, we have turned out around fifty carpenters, solderers, motor-maintenance mechanics, electricians, a technical nurse or two, a couple of heavy-machinery drivers and we have two or three lads at present who are at the National University of the Peruvian Amazon (UNAP) or at the Scientific University of Peru (UCP), studying Forestry Engineering, Psychology and Hotel and Tourism.

Not every story is a success, some lads have not responded as we would’ve liked and carried on in their gang-member life-style, just drinking, fighting, using drugs and getting girls pregnant. They had to be separated from the Project. It’s tough love, but people don’t make sacrifices and give funds to have some wise-guy laugh in your face,” said Joe, who after eleven years living here, has learnt a lot about the idiosyncrasies of the Amazon people and about the difficulties of working with people living in extreme poverty.

“Sometimes their social circle or family doesn’t let them aspire to better themselves. There’s a lot of jealousy and envy in Peruvian society. If life is going well for someone, there’s never a lack of folk wishing them ill and hoping to see them fail. Also, when you’ve lived hand to mouth all your life, when you have the possibility of climbing up the ladder a bit, it sometimes seems scary and you decide to stick with what you know.

They call it “conformismo” here, sometimes it’s about just being happy and content with what you have, and that’s where maybe Peruvians could teach us Westerners a thing or two; other times it’s the inability to think beyond today and the next meal because you’ve never had the resources to be able to. It’s understandable really.”

We have won the District League in Punchana five times and have won the Provincial Copa Peru twice, once travelling to Requena and once to Indiana, where our pathway to glory was stopped by dubious refereeing and a series of other factors.

“Unlike when you got to play in Europe, success in football here is as much a case of being a step ahead of your opponent off the pitch, as on it,” says Joe, who’s learnt to be just as cunning as the other local league and provincial officials. “In the days before an important game you have to have eyes and ears everywhere, to stay up to date on what tricks the other Clubs might be up to.”

Cultural Visits

Durham Cathedral

A real history lesson for the whole group, talking about the Vikings, the Normans and the Roman Empire, St.Cuthbert’s tomb and the monastic Christian tradition. They lapped it up and we talked about Henry VIII, the film, “BraveHeart”, and “Harry Potter” (part of it was filmed in the “Quad” at Durham Cathedral). Peruvian history lessons concentrate mainly on South American history understandably, the history of the Inca Empire, and the battles against Chile, with some time, but not much, spent on the American Civil War, the Spanish Civil War, World War I and II.

Sunday Lunch at My Mum and Dad’s House and  “the Pub”

The football tour included social visits, such as Sunday lunch at Joe’s mum and dad’s house, where his family had slogged away all morning to provide salmon, beef and chicken dishes plus vegetables, gravy and all the trimmings, and just in case, a HUGE bowl of rice. The lads ate two or three platefuls and my Mum was over the moon. Then we all went to the local pub with my Dad to watch the Manchester Derby!

St. James’ Park and Old Trafford

Two major highlights of the trip for the lads, mainly from the peripheral suburbs or “barrios” around the City of Iquitos and beyond, were two trips to Newcastle United’s stadium, St.James’ Park and to the “Theatre of Dreams”, Manchester United’s world-renowned stadium Old Trafford.

WILL A TRIP LIKE THIS HAPPEN AGAIN ?

“Everyone asks me if we’re going to repeat such a memorable trip to the UK…it was a lot of work and planning, very, very satisfying for all involved but it is a project which takes a year or so to plan and execute. If someone were to come up with the funding either from here or from the UK, I’d be very happy to make it happen…I was, and am, very proud of my two regions-the North East of England and the North-Eastern corner of the Peruvian Amazon Rainforest and enabling people from either reality to enjoy them, and to see the joys and struggles of the people of both continents, is a great privilege. I believe neither culture is better or worse than the other, that life in Europe and the West has its’ fair share of strains and pressures for people who feel driven or obliged to sustain a certain standard of life. The people of the Amazon have a great deal to teach us.

As we’ve seen, Europe is being gripped by fear of not being able to live up to its’ previous affluence and people are very anxious. At the same time, as the Peruvian footballers observed, life in the UK is more ordered, with good roads, rubbish/refuse is collected promptly, schools are well-equipped and teachers get paid on time, hospitals are clean and well-maintained, with prompt service and a National Health Service which (for the moment, at least) attends people regardless of their social class or ability to pay.

The young footballers of “Club Deportivo Angamos Juventud Bellavista” had a great time in the UK but were glad to come home. They noticed a lack of community concern or feeling, an individualism and a desire to have control of one’s life and of things around you, that is not as present here, because life is so much governed by the heat, the rain, the rising and falling of the rivers, the risk of malaria, dengue, or another form of illness, day-to-day concerns about whether the family has enough food, or money to pay study fees, or the electric bill, etc…and I think that breeds an ability to live a lot more in the present, aware of your feelings and those of others, alert to the wiles of nature and Creation.

I know that the trip to North East England was an amazing adventure and a huge event in the lives of these young Loretanos, but at the end of the day, for all they might marvel at the orderliness of a “developed country”, I think that when they honestly weigh things up, they wouldn’t swap places with a teenager there for all the “arroz chaufa” in the world!

Trip to the UK by young footballers from Iquitos

Guest post by Joe Plumb

Bill Grimes here. If you are like me, after reading this article you want to congratulate Joe Plumb. He is setting a great example. Joe’s actions are remarkable, and he tells the story well. If you would like to learn more about Joe, click this link to;

Brit Expats Gather With Embassy Staff;


Dawn on the Amazon Captains Blog

Author:
• Friday, October 14th, 2011

Guest post by Belden Daniels

Buenos Dias! It is now early Saturday morning, 9/17/11, just after the sun has risen at 5:30am. Here on the Equator, the sun sets at about 6 and rises about 6 all year around, varying only about 15 minutes from Summer December 22 to Winter June 21. I am sitting outside on the deck  of the SS Eduardo VI after my first day and first night on the Amazon. All my many new Peruvian friends and acquaintances think this is really weird and fascinating — their Gringo friend typing away on his computer sitting in the bright Amazon sun on the deck right by the Wheelhouse of the ship, just above the cattle, the bananas piled high, the salt, two Chinese generators and a handful of spanking shiny Suzuki motorcycles. We are surrounded by young kids and young people gawking and talking, including “Aida” a smart and fluent teacher from Yurimaguas bringing her teenage secondary school charges on a field trip on the river to Iquitos. Now six are doing the crossword together in Spanish I think it is not the NYT by any stretch, but everyone is having fun. Who is the husband of Fatima? What is the word for Latin money – three letters? What is the symbol in Latin #s for 150? We have the C, now struggling for the “50″. Ah, yes, it’s L.

The Eduardo VI makes the SS Vietnam pacqueboat which Pamela and I took from Singapore to Sri Lanka in 1960 seem like the Queen Mary. That ship loaded on the rubber first, the tin second, the exotic Spanish flamenco dance troupe third, and us fourth. Wonderful French food, movies and wine. Not quite on the SS Eduardo. Here people get loaded first: 15 or so people in 8 very simple metal cabins with a sheet, a towel, something called a toilet and no frills, plus the 110 person mix of Peruvian Amazonians in their hammocks [including Aida and her charges] on two hammock decks with six young Europeans — 2 Brits, David now on his 3rd year traveling the world and Kevin the Scot, beautiful Marta from Poland with Martin the chef from the Czech Republic, even more beautiful Agatha [oh, the French say that so much more beautifully than the English!] and Frederick from France – all committed world travelers working, learning languages and traveling slowly around the world, in no hurry to go home.

Nothing runs on schedule here. The nonchalant sense of time makes my friend Paul Wright smile a bemused smile, and I am now totally captured by Peruvian time, never my strong suit. Paul, an expat Californian who is my traveling companion all the way down the Amazon until he decides to get off, has lived on the Amazon for 45 years and has the patience to show for it.

Paul, is 79 with as many stories as I have, and is apparently the only man alive who could arrange for me the almost insuperable task of sailing 3000 miles from boat to boat and city to city and country to country down the Amazon. He calls my shipdeck computer table perch the “longest office in the world” – from Yurimaguas to Samiria to Nauta and Iquitos and Caballo Cocha in Peru, then first to Leticia [a major drug entrepot for moving the world's best cocoa leaves from the Amazon jungle of Peru to its refinement and manufacture in Columbia, before shipment to Panama and Mexico to move across the border to the world's largest (and most hypocritical) drug market -- the US; I will have an entire Mega Report to talk about the many multiple billions of $ Drug Trade, and our totally irresponsible approach to it - it is the oxygen that permeates the air of Mexico, Panama, Peru and Columbia, but it is seldom seen or heard, only its deadly consequences],  and then Tabatinga in Columbia, and then on to Manaus, Brazil and finally Belem at the mouth of the Amazon on the Atlantic three weeks later in Brazil.

When we arrived in Yurimaguas Thursday, 9/15/11, we didn’t know if we were leaving that evening or Friday 9/16/11. Then we were told 12 noon, but young Harry [pronounced "Harrr-E"], a very handsome 27 year old Peruvian Buck who is Paul’s gopher, bet Paul a beer that it would not set sail until at least 4pm. Harry won. Sometimes we can’t find Harry, but we know where to look – he is usually in a hammock somewhere with yet another beautiful Peruvian girl [really there are no other kinds of Peruvian girls]. Paul asked Harry if it is hard to make love in a hammock, and Harry replied in Spanish “not so much.” Sex here in the Peruvian Amazon jungle is very like Bhutan — a very easy and natural part of life to be enjoyed as often as possible — as the ’60s song says, “Love the one you’re with”. Harry is also an equal opportunity bi-sexual lover, which is apparently quite common here in the Peruvian jungle.

Our wonderful collection of Amazon kids and teenagers are now permanently hanging out with us for the duration. Now sharing potato chips [Frito Lays, god help us] and the vastly better and sweeter very thin fried banana slices sold like potato chips. I much prefer these thin dried, lightly fried banana slices, and think someone could make a fortune challenging Frito Lay with them in the US.

So in a reverse of Singapore, people first, cargo second until the last banana stalks or rice bags are raced to the dock by overloaded porters in shorts and nothing else. We were held up an additional 4 hours by the special difficulty of loading 9 huge head of Brahma – Texas Longhorn cattle on board plus one especially cantankerous bull who definitely did not want to be corralled. Six cowboys were pulling and hauling as two even bigger Chinese generators were being loaded on. The bull realized that if he ran into the generators and knocked them over he could make life very difficult for the cowboys. And he did. The leader of the Chinese generator loading gang was an also very large 250 pound bald Peruvian stevedore, nude but for shorts that were trying very hard to fall off, who could have been a part of the WWW World Wide Wrestling TV circuit. I honestly was worried that he was killed when the bull pounded the generator into him; but he reacted angrily as if he had been only bruised a bit, which he certainly had been. The bull got his tail broken for his malfeasance, and he was much easier to handle once he was broken. A brutal business these pacqueboats. Both the bull and all the equally stubborn cattle were joined on the 130 foot  Eduardo VI by tons of bananas, fish, rice, salt, produce and a half dozen brand new big Japanese motorcycles headed for Iquitos.

Both Tarapoto, a young and thriving drug entrepot [our hotel owned by a mid sized drug lord] and commercial center for a vast Amazon highland agricultural Eden of rice, potatoes, bananas, grapes, coffee, oranges and hundreds of other fruits and vegetables plus, of course, the best cacao in the world for high grade chocolate [not Hershey's, people are quick to tell me] and cocoa for cocaine  – all segregated by altitude in the Amazon highlands from 1500 feet to 5000,  and Yurimaguas, the first significant up river port town for all of this produce on the Amazon — are both towns of about 120,000 souls plus 60,000 motorbikes in each and 20,000 motor rickshaws, called “”MotoKars”” in this part of the world.

Very few autos at all in the towns or on the roads, but very large trucks filled to the gills driving the dangerous, guard-rail-less two lane black top highways winding up and down and over and around the jungle mountain tops and very sheer green canyons of Virgin Amazon Jungle. On Thursday 9/15/11 we drove the 150 kilometers from Tarapoto in the Andean foothills and Amazon highlands to Yurimaguas on the Amazon lowlands in a “collectivo” bus, my 16th “collectivo” or “publico” since leaving Mexico City one month ago. This remains to date the best bus ride of my life. Cliffs as extreme as Big Sur, but much more windy and sheer, somewhat like the drive from Yosemite over the Sierra Nevadas to Nevada, yet all of this in lush, lush Virgin Amazon jungle! I got more seasick than anytime in the rough Winter Humboldt Current seas of the Galapagos – more like Antarctica, but I managed to keep it all together. I also loved once again wangling my 15th out of 16 collectivo bus rides in the shot gun seat just to the right of the driver – the seat with the best, unobstructed views of the shear cliff drops and mountain tops and rich Virgin Amazon jungle vegetation.

Two other interesting aspects of this trip: first, we had two policia check points because of the heavy drug traffic on all these mountain routes, and at about kilometer 100 we suddenly arrived at what is called the “Abraba” where the Andean foothills and Amazon highlands and Virgin Jungle abruptly ends, and the endless 3000 miles of Amazon lowlands stretching all the way to the Atlantic Ocean begins. Quite a breathtaking sight! My Polish and Czech friends, Marta and Martin, had an apparently far more terrifying ride coming through the heart of the cocoa country with the berserk driver trying to outrun the drug robbers who, if they catch you first strip you of everything, and then your life.

When we finally left Yurimaguas after 4pm, of course we immediately ran aground on a sandbar. After many failed attempts, the Eduardo IV had to come out and pull us back into the channel. Beautiful long Amazon sunset and a near full moon on the river after a usual late afternoon shower.

Our Captain was on his makeshift “bridge” if we can dignify it with such a word. It is literally right next to my cabin, and I hear the very definitely not-power steering wheel cranking its chain and cable port and starboard all night long – soothing actually. Our Eduardo VI Captain has absolutely no instruments [or glass in the two windows] on this bridge, or even a light to steer by. It is all done Mark Twain style by the feel of the constantly shifting river, with new channels and islands appearing and disappearing daily. And navigation at night only by human night vision and a few stars and the good fortune of a full moon once a month. Quite literally Mark Twain style, as electronic depth readers don’t work on the Amazon. They are too easily sheared off in a few days by a log floating by. So the method is that of the 19th Century on the Mississippi drop a line over the side and measure the meters down to the silty bottom. This is especially impressive at the low water season we have now, where the Amazon is 45 to 50 feet lower than it is in April, when it stretches two more miles in both directions into the jungle like the Nile. Sand bar groundings are a part of the journey, as we of course discovered leaving port yesterday. Then of course, as the crew jumps out there is [1] the risk of piranhas that can strip a cow to bone in a 3 minute frenzy [so I said I would last about 30 seconds, which our crowd of cross-word puzzle doing and kaffee klatching teenage friends thought was hilarious] and, more ominously [2] the carnero, which are 10” long and finger thin, with a profound capacity to wriggle into any human orifice and eat their way out. The world is full of risks, but some of these are a little different. Now another hazard: soup thick fog covering the Amazon called the Niebela.

Now as we sail down river on Saturday 9/17/11, we are stopping every 30 minutes or so at every small thatched hut village along the river if they signal with flipping tin sheets in the sun to telegraph that they have cargo to add, such as the endless bananas and more very reluctant cattle heading to their slaughter in Iquitos early Monday morning.  If it is just villagers to come to or leave the ship, they are ferried in a small dugout without the “big” ship having to slow down or go to port – only real cargo, so the priorities on the river here are quite clear. We are now at Noquira, with maybe 200 souls on a sunny day like today living in thatched huts strewn along the river bank. We are here to pick up a huge pile of bananas being placed right beside the nine long horn cattle and one bull in the corral just below me, and one very reluctant cow who keeps jumping in the water and trying to swim away. Oh, now squealing hogs pulled and pushed “walking the plank” in reverse, also headed to Iquitos slaughter.

At each stop, all the vendors come on board with fresh fruits and vegetables, fish, snacks, flashlights, hammocks, agua, and even a live parrot on a stick being sold to anyone who would have him, her or it. As is true of most parrots, this animal does not seem to be very nice. Harry just brought me  a shimbillo, a big foot long seed pod [about twice the size of a Chestnut tree pod] from the jungle with lush white fruit like cold chicken or lobster inside.

Speaking of fruits, I am eating so many fruits and vegetables and fishes I have never seen or heard before in this phenomenally bio-rich environment. There are apparently more than 5000 species of fish in the Amazon, a number I must verify. I did count 22 different species in the Yurimaguas market early yesterday [Friday 9/16/11] all of which were available either salt or fresh: [1] the charming piranha, of course, with a very scary row of extremely sharp teeth like Jaws in Goldfinger; [2] very big sardinas up to nine inches long, [3] liza, [4] palometa, [4] boyuichico, [5] pasaco, [6] llambino, [7] doricella, which look like pike, [8] acarausu, with a large blue spot on the low back near the dorsal fin, [9] toonore, a superb fish we had the night before on the balcony of an open air restaurant in Tarapoto, [10] sabalo, [11] maparate, [12] bagre, which seem to me to be a form of catfish, [13] dorado, a fish I know and again had last night, [14] lagirto blanco, [15] paco, also last night, [16] gamitano, [17] arawana, that have huge scales the size of silver dollars, and are a delicacy in the Middle East and Asia, [18] bujunqui, [19] corbeno, [20] shuyo, [21] paiche, and last but far from least [22] 30 foot long eels with bodies the thickness of a big upper arm!

A remarkable, and as usual, somewhat troubling world. So glad I am here. I love just sitting outside my cabin and watch the river flow by, and all the people and fish and boats [beyond the hundreds of dugouts are dragon boats very much like those on the Bangkok River that are the short haul boats for people and produce] from a beautiful early 5:30 sunrise to an equally beautiful 5:30 sunset, which we have just had. So now to bed before landing early tomorrow morning shortly after sunrise.

It is now sunrise, Sunday morning 9/18/11 and we are in our first truly heavy “Calcutta monsoon-like” bucket downpour. Paul says the seasons of the Amazon are wet and far wetter; we are now in mere “wet”. And, you guessed it, the 3am landing in Nauta is now more like late morning. Too many cows and pigs and bananas to load at too many stops coming down river. We will see…
Love to all, Belden Daniels

Amazon River Adventure, Yurimaguas to Iquitos on a tramp Freighter

Bill Grimes is the publisher of the Captain’s Blog. The opinions and details of guest posts may or may not express the opinions of Bill Grimes or Dawn on the Amazon E.I.R.L.


Dawn on the Amazon Captains Blog

Author:
• Wednesday, September 28th, 2011

george-mott-photo

Dr. George Mott photo from his passport in Guatamala

I receive a lot of emails for a lot of reasons, but this one stands out for capturing my attention and imagination. How about yours? If you have any ideas or information, please post it in the comments below.

“I found your site and wondered if you might help me with finding information on my great grandfather. His name was George Mott and he lived and died in  Iquitos on April 2, 1927. He was buried there by a Gustav Fleering “ in the panteon” . George was a medical doctor. The papers we found from the American Consular Service states at death he had in his possession 10 cases of collections of butterflies and other animals…We think George may have been doing research. Is there anyone in your town that might have any information or can you tell my who I might contact? Any information you have will be greatly appreciated.”

george-mott-guatemala

Dr. George Mott's republic of Guatemala passport. The date appears to be 1921

So we sent one of our top researchers, Juan Maldonado, to the public register, to the cemetery register, and to the cemetery to look in the section devoted to burials from 1925 to 1928. He found nothing pertinent to this mystery, but in the process of his investigation he lost his glasses and his cell phone.

The trail is cold. We have more questions than answers. Why was he in Guatemala? Why was he in Ecuador?  Why Columbia? I speculate he was traveling over-land through Central and South America in the 1920′s to Peru. We know he traveled from Illinois to Texas, to Florida.

george-mott-death-certificate

The Death Certificate for Doctor George Mott

We know from the Death Certificate Dr. George Mott died in Iquitos, April 8th, 1927.

american consulate-iquitos-1927-george-mott

The American Consulat report on George Mott in 1927

This document from the American Consulate General, lets us know that George Mott died with “practically nothing of value; no cloths and no money, only 10 cases of collections of butterflies, and other animals, seven of which are stated to be of utterly no value: and three of which have already been sold by the British Consul for twenty soles, to keep them from decay. In addition to this, the assets of the estates consists of such proceeds as may be realized from the sale of 6,000 butterflies to Germany shortly before the death of Mr. Mott. It is stated that some butterflies were sent to New York but the consignment was refused. Inas much as Mr. Mott owed a board bill of 810 soles the British Cousul has been requested to turn over any sum up to that amount to Mr. Gustav Fleering,…”

american-consular-report-page-2-george-mott

This is page two of the American Consular report on the mysterious death of Doctor George Mott

In Mister Fleering’s letter to the British Consul the former stated he had buried Mister Mott in the “panteon” (cemetery) No further details are known. The death is being reported…to Mr. Tranger of Philadelphia, inas much as he is the only person with whom Mr. Mott is known to have had more than business dealings. I am informed that Mr. Mott repeatedly stated that he had no family in the United States, and inas much as he left no estate, it does not appear useful to pursue the matter further.”

george-mott-June-2nd-1921-columbia

The stamp on the upper left is dated June 2nd 1921 Columbia

Intriguing. His passport reveals he was in Columbia June 2, 1921, Ecuador August 4, 1925, Guatemala, May 13, 1925 and died in Peru April 8, 1927. He did not travel a straight line. Why did he travel from Ecuador to Guatemala then to Peru? Did he travel overland? Was he was just flitting from country to country chasing butterflies…

george-mott-sketch-fingerprint

Sketch of George Mott, with his signature, fingerprint, gray eyes, profession seems to read chemist, passport number 426, Bogata is crossed out and what appears to be Valencia (?) is written , May 1924, in Columbia

And then to add to the details and the mystery, this follow up email;

“Thank for you interest and the beautiful pictures. Sorry I have been a trouble and your friend lost his phone and glasses. Did he find them?

He was born in Yorkville, Illinois in 1854. He came to Hardin county Texas around 1883 and married 3 times, the last wife was my great grandmother, Laura. George became a dr in 1889 after the death of his 1st wife in child birth. He traveled alot to study new medical procedures and when he left home 1912 he signed on as a crew dr for a railroad. He was only going to be gone a short time but had a hotel in north east texas send his clothes home with a letter he would be back soon. He never returned. The family assumed he was killed somewhere. In the 80′s a cousin tried to find him but only found more questions. I started trying to find him about a year ago and found him in Florida on the 1920 census. So then the question was where he was between 1912 and 1920 and then where he died. Another cousin works for an oil company and her job is to find heirs so she decided to find George. She came up with the passport and death certificate and a letter from the American Consulate General. Our interest is why he went down there, what he was doing (except catching butterflies and why) and I guess for closure.
The passport (#42(5)6) is from Guatemala 5/13/1925, Colombia 6/2/1921, Equador 8/4/1925. There is another paper in another language dated 3/3/1924. Thanks again for you interest.”

Mike Collis, editor of the Iquitos Times, Caleb Whitaker author of Jungle Love and I have spent many hours speculating about George Mott’s life and death, and what Iquitos was like to live in circa 1927.

This morning I paid our researcher on the street, Juan Maldonado, S/10 soles to bring a old well spoken man with a good memory. That’s how I came to meet the charming 87 year old Ulises Elespuro. I enjoyed our conversation. According to Don Ulises, poor people with no assets were buried in a common grave. He was only 2 years old in 1927 so his impressions of that date must have his age taken in to consideration. He estimated the population of Iquitos in 1927 at 200 souls.

Caleb and I looked at the aerial photo taken in 1924, attributed to Elmer Faucett, in Scott Humfeld’s excellent article Iquitos Peru, A Photographic Record Of Iquitos Peru; Past and Present. We tried to estimate the population of Iquitos in 1924. Caleb thought 2,000 to 3,000, I think 5,000 to 10,000. Another friend of mine, Bill Park, is trained at estimating the number of birds in a flock or people in a crowd estimated 50,000. So we have guesses from 200 to 50,000. What do you think?

Much has been written about Iquitos during the rubber boom from approximately 1880 to 1912, when the population may have grown to over 20,000 people in the middle of the rainforest where rivers took the place of roads, but what happened after the collapse? I did a little research on the internet and found that only 14% of the most sound businesses continued to prosper into 1927 and beyond. What about the other 86% of the businesses? What was the population in 1927 and what was life like for it’s residents two decades after the economy of Iquitos collapsed?

What about your imagination? What do you think? Leave a comment below to let us know.

The mysterious life and death of Dr. George Mott, in Iquitos 1927

I have the honor to be your obedient servant, Bill Grimes reporting from Iquitos Peru 2012, striving to avoid the fate of Dr. Mott…

Other articles about the history of Iquitos in the Peruvian Amazon can be read here. Click the links below;

Steamships Of The Rubber Boom: Recovering History in the Peruvian Amazon;

Follow the Course Of History on the restored Amazon Riverboat Clavero, Since 1876;



Dawn on the Amazon Captains Blog

Author:
• Sunday, September 25th, 2011

george-mott-photo
Dr. George Mott, from his passport photo

I receive a lot of emails for a lot of reasons, but this one stands out for capturing my attention and imagination. How about yours? If you have any ideas or information, please post it in the comments below.

“I found your site and wondered if you might help me with finding information on my great grandfather. His name was George Mott and he lived and died in  Iquitos on April 2, 1927. He was buried there by a Gustav Fleering “ in the panteon” . George was a medical doctor. The papers we found from the American Consular Service states at death he had in his possession 10 cases of collections of butterflies and other animals…We think George may have been doing research. Is there anyone in your town that might have any information or can you tell my who I might contact? Any information you have will be greatly appreciated.”

george-mott-guatemala-passport

Dr. George Mott, Guatemala Passport. The date seems to be 1921

So we sent one of our top researchers, Juan Madonado, to the public register, to the cemetery register, and to the cemetery to look in the section devoted to burials from 1925 to 1928. He found nothing pertinent to this mystery, but in the process of his investigation he lost his glasses and his cell phone.

The trail is cold. We have more questions than answers. Why was he in Guatemala? Why was he in Ecuador?  Why Columbia? I speculate he was traveling over-land through Central and South America in the 1920′s to Peru. We know he traveled from Illinois to Texas, to Florida.

george-mott-death-certificate

The Death Certificate for Doctor George Mott

We know from the Death Certificate Dr. George Mott died in Iquitos, April 8th, 1927

american-consulate-about-george-mott

The American Consulate report on George Mott

This document from the American Consulate General, lets us know that George Mott died with “practically nothing of value; no cloths and no money, only 10 cases of collections of butterflies, and other animals, seven of which are stated to be of utterly no value: and three of which have already been sold by the British Consul for twenty soles, to keep them from decay. In addition to this, the assets of the estates consists of such proceeds as may be realized from the sale of 6,000 butterflies to Germany shortly before the death of Mr. Mott. It is stated that some butterflies were sent to New York but the consignment was refused. Inas much as Mr. Mott owed a board bill of 810 soles the British Cousul has been requested to turn over any sum up to that amount to Mr. Gustav Fleering,…”

george-mott-page-2-american-counsular-report-1927

This is page 2 of the American Counsular report on the mysterious death of Dr. George Mott

In Mister Fleering’s letter to the British Consul the former stated he had buried Mister Mott in the “panteon” (cemetery) No further details are known. The death is being reported…to Mr. Tranger of Philadelphia, inas much as he is the only person with whom Mr. Mott is known to have had more than business dealings. I am informed that Mr. Mott repeatedly stated that he had no family in the United States, and inas much as he left no estate, it does not appear useful to pursue the matter further.”

george-mott-ecuador

This stamp on the upper left is dated June 2 1921 Columbia

Intriguing. His passport reveals he was in Columbia June 2, 1921, Ecuador August 4, 1925, Guatemala, May 13, 1925 and died in Peru April 8, 1927. He did not travel a straight line. Why did he travel from Ecuador to Guatemala then to Peru? Did he travel overland? Was he was just flitting from country to country chasing butterflies…

george-mott-sketch

Sketch of George Mott, with his signature, his finger print, gray eyes, profession seems to be chemist, passport number 426, Bogata is crossed out and what might be Valencia(?) is written, May 1924, in Columbia

And then to add to the details and the mystery, this follow up email;

“Thank for you interest and the beautiful pictures. Sorry I have been a trouble and your friend lost his phone and glasses. Did he find them?

He was born in Yorkville, Illinois in 1854. He came to Hardin county Texas around 1883 and married 3 times, the last wife was my great grandmother, Laura. George became a dr in 1889 after the death of his 1st wife in child birth. He traveled alot to study new medical procedures and when he left home 1912 he signed on as a crew dr for a railroad. He was only going to be gone a short time but had a hotel in north east texas send his clothes home with a letter he would be back soon. He never returned. The family assumed he was killed somewhere. In the 80′s a cousin tried to find him but only found more questions. I started trying to find him about a year ago and found him in Florida on the 1920 census. So then the question was where he was between 1912 and 1920 and then where he died. Another cousin works for an oil company and her job is to find heirs so she decided to find George. She came up with the passport and death certificate and a letter from the American Consulate General. Our interest is why he went down there, what he was doing (except catching butterflies and why) and I guess for closure.
The passport (#42(5)6) is from Guatemala 5/13/1925, Colombia 6/2/1921, Equador 8/4/1925. There is another paper in another language dated 3/3/1924. Thanks again for you interest.”

Mike Collis, editor of the Iquitos Times, Caleb Whitaker author of Jungle Love and I have spent many hours speculating about George Mott’s life and death, and what Iquitos was like to live in circa 1927.

This morning I paid our researcher on the street, Juan Maldonado, S/10 soles to bring a old well spoken man with a good memory. That’s how I came to meet the charming 87 year old Ulises Elespuro. I enjoyed our conversation. According to Don Ulises, poor people with no assets were buried in a common grave. He was only 2 years old in 1927 so his impressions of that date must have his age taken in to consideration. He estimated the population of Iquitos in 1927 at 200 souls.

Caleb and I looked at the aerial photo taken in 1924, attributed to Elmer Faucett, in Scott Humfeld’s excellent article Iquitos Peru, A Photographic Record Of Iquitos Peru; Past and Present. We tried to estimate the population of Iquitos in 1924. Caleb thought 2,000 to 3,000, I think 5,000 to 10,000. Another friend of mine, Bill Park, is trained at estimating the number of birds in a flock or people in a crowd estimated 50,000. So we have guesses from 200 to 50,000. What do you think?

Much has been written about Iquitos during the rubber boom from approximately 1880 to 1912, when the population may have grown to over 20,000 people in the middle of the rainforest where rivers took the place of roads, but what happened after the collapse? I did a little research on the internet and found that only 14% of the most sound businesses continued to prosper into 1927 and beyond. What about the other 86% of the businesses? What was the population in 1927 and what was life like for it’s residents two decades after the economy of Iquitos collapsed?

What about your imagination? What do you think? Leave a comment below to let us know.

The mysterious life and death of Dr. George Mott, in Iquitos 1927

Bill Grimes reporting from Iquitos Peru 2012, striving to avoid a similar fate.

Other articles about the history of Iquitos in the Peruvian Amazon can be read here. Click the links below;

Steamships Of The Rubber Boom: Recovering History in the Peruvian Amazon;

Follow the Course Of History on the Restored Amazon Riverboat Clavero, Since 1876;


Dawn on the Amazon Captains Blog

Author:
• Thursday, July 14th, 2011

I had the wonderful opportunity to visit Peru for a month (June 2011) and just wanted to mention the food at Dawn on the Amazon (DOTA), at the end of the boulevard.  While I like Peruvian food, it is as you know wholesome and delicious; sometimes I craved some old-fashioned American style food.  The food at DOTA is meticulously prepared, and is the most similar to back-home cooking that I have found in Iquitos.  I suggest that you try the menu; I found nothing served to be less than excellent, but I have several favorites that I want to mention.  The first are the many fruit drinks: mango, camu-camu, or mixtures of several tropical drinks.  I especially enjoyed the drinks served “frozen”.  My two favorite meals were the spicy breakfast burrito and the spaghetti with meat sauce.  The breakfast burrito consisted of two egg burritos covered with gravy.  It was absolutely delicious.  The spaghetti was to die for, and the portions were enough to satisfy the biggest appetite.  The spaghetti dinner came with a delicious red sauce, a wonderful tossed salad (very clean), and a hearty serving of garlic bread.  I suggest that you try other items on the menu, and see what you like the best.  I guarantee that you won’t be disappointed.

Maddogmike sometimes referred to as Michael Stewart, Professor of Environmental Sciences, Troy University, Troy, AL, USA

The Food At Dawn on the Amazon, Iquitos Peru

Bill Grimes here, reporting from Iquitos Peru. Thank you Miguel


Dawn on the Amazon Captains Blog