• Wednesday, September 28th, 2011
- Universitario and Alianza Lima battle it out
Watch live video from verfutbolhd on www.justin.tv
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Archive for the Category ◊ Peru Tours ◊
• Thursday, September 22nd, 2011
While my dad and I unfortunately didn’t have the time or the energy to hike the famed 4-day Inca Trail to get to Machu Picchu, we chose an equally exciting way to get there; the Sacred Valley Tour. Instead going to Aguas Calientes (the town at the base of Machu Picchu) directly from Cuzco via train, we drove for several hours through the mountains to small town of Ollantaytambo where we boarded the train. Along the way, we stopped at three archaeological sites and drove by several more that were nestled away on the hillsides. It is a beautifully scenic and enjoyable way to start the journey to Machu Picchu, and I highly recommend it!
Our first glimpse down into the Sacred Valley!
We began our day driving down in elevation to the Sacred Valley. Our first stop on the tour was the site of Pisac. An archaeological complex that spans the entire surface of a single mountain, Pisac is thought to have served as both a spiritual and agricultural center. The sheer magnitude of the site must be appreciated from both far and near. Once at the base of the mountain, the bus takes 20 minutes to ascend to the entrance. Along the way, passengers have the opportunity to view the site from several different angles that are not all accessable by foot once there.
One side of PisacAnother side of Pisac
Exploring the site by foot, there are several different spots to visit. There are two main architectural complexes that boast both beautiful masonry and impressive towers. From the second, one has a great view of the over 3000 ventanillas (window-like cliff-face tombs) lining the adjacent mountain.
- A small portion of the over 3000 cliff-tombs at the site
In addition, visiting the administrative center at the very top of the site is very impressive. Standing in it, you get an eerie sense of how much power the Incan ruler that utilized that space had. The site sits in a very advantageous position – allowing sweeping 360 degree views of the valley and terraces below. The ruler would have had the ultimate view of his entire valley kingdom; allowing him to oversee agricultural progress.
Sweeping view of the valley below Pisac's administrative center
I could get used to this…
Climbing the stairs at Pisac was hard work. So when our time was up there, we boarded the bus and headed off to lunch (which was included in the day’s ticket) to reward ourselves for a good climb. After a short drive we arrived at an outdoor buffet. Under a huge tent were three long tables filled with dozens of different foods – fresh fruits and vegetables, different salads, fish, chicken, and even pasta. The food was delicious – and we spent our hour there eating and chatting with new friends – a Peruvian couple from another tour bus who were sharing our table.
After lunch it was back to the bus and onto our next destination: Ollantaytambo. It took an additional hour or so to get there – the perfect amount of time to sneak a post-lunch nap (which is what 90% of our bus did!). Rolling into the tiny town in which Ollantaytambo sits, it’s very hard to believe what you’re seeing is real. Deemed an ancient “resting place” for travelers making their way to Machu Picchu – Ollantaytambo stretchs almost vertically up a steep mountain, and the tourists who have made it to the top look like ants.
Ollantaytambo – from the bottom
Not much of a resting place, really. Despite the daunting appearance, it IS possible to climb to the top, and the view once you’re there is definitely worth it.
The Temple of the Sun is one of the biggest draws for tourists at the site. It consists of several 10 foot high stone blocks, fitted together perfectly, and notched so that the sun bounces off it in a certain way, like an ancient sundial.
Temple of the Sun
Once you’re able to make your way to the very top (it takes time), you have a wonderful view of the site, the town, and the adjacent site of Wiracochan. Wiracochan is thought to have been a storage center for Ollantaytambo, and provided a place to house excess food to feed the travelers. It even served as a sort of ancient refridgerator - built in a spot with optimal wind and shade exposure, food was kept at a cooler than normal temperature.
WiracochanWiracochan in detail
Our tour of Ollantaytambo was amazing. The best part was that (for us) it was the final stop on the tour and we were able to explore at our leisure after our guide was done with his explaination. We took full advantage of this and spent an additional 30 minutes exploring different rooms and passages, before making our way back down the multitude of terraces to the bottom.
Slowly making our way down the HUGE terracesLooking back, can't believe we made it up all those stairs!
At the bottom of the site – which boasts quite a lovely artisans market – we watched as the majority of our group boarded the bus and began their 2.5 hour journey back to Cuzco. But for us, and a many others, it was time to continue our journey to Machu Picchu.
After a quick dinner break, we traveled the short half-mile (you can walk or take a taxi) through the town of Ollantaytambo to the train station. There, we boarded our backpacker train to Aguas Calientes – the town at the base of Macchu Picchu. When we arrived at our destination, it was dark out and we could just barely see the outlines of the mountains rising over the town. We were both very excited to wake up the next morning and see our first glimpse of both the town, and of Machu Picchu.
Kate is a volunteer and researcher for the Karikuy Volunteer Program in Lima, Peru.
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• Sunday, August 28th, 2011
Perhaps the most visited area in Peru, Cuzco and its surrounding area is home to a wide array of archaeological sites and interesting cultural experiences. It’s proximity to Machu Picchu makes it the ideal place to stop over on one’s way to visit the aforementioned famed archaeological site, and it’s own local attractions give tourists a reason to linger in the ancient city for several days.
View from our hotel of the Main Plaza
A simple Google search can land you, seemingly, all the information you need to know about Cuzco; tourist agencies, hotels, local attractions, pictures. There is such an overwhelming amount of information and photos you might even feel like you don’t even need to go there, because you’ve already seen it all. Well, I’m here to verify that there is far more to see in and around Cuzco than you could ever possibly find in a Google search. You are guaranteed to say “this is unbelievable” so many times, that you have start looking for another phrase to use.
After many weeks of anticipation (and a heck of a lot of planning on Julio’s part) I collected my dad fresh off a plane from the USA and we set off for Cuzco for a week of exploring. Sending a history teacher and his archaeologist daughter into the oldest and one of the most ruin-laden cities in Peru is like sending two kids into a free candy store. We couldn’t be happier.
While we planned to do some of the most popular tours, we also chose a few lesser known excursions (at Julio’s suggestion). Although we didn’t know much about them, we were assured they were worth our time to check out, and that we certainly wouldn’t be disappointed
Shortly after arriving in Cuzco, we set out on the City Tour; one of the most popular tourist excursions, and probably one of the most economical. Having purchased a Tourist Pass (one ticket that allows entrance into multiple local sites and museums), participating in the City Tour allowed us to visit multiple places all in one go.
The City Tour brought us to 5 different places – each of them unique and fascinating
Our first sto was Coricancha, an Inca/Colonial site. The base of the site is the Incan Inti Kancha (Temple of the Sun). When the Spanish arrived in Cuzco, they sought to build the Church of Santo Domingo and built it on the remnants of the Inti Kancha to both demonstrate religious superiority and to make use of the Incan’s mastery of solid foundations.
It was really interesting to witness both Inca and Spanish design/construction at the same location beautiful oil paintings adorned walls adjacent to Incan rooms. A reminder of how Incan and Spanish history are forever fused together and of how the Spanish demonstrated there political superiority.
Deconstructed blocks illustrating Inca building strategies
Next on the tour were the ruins of Sacsayhuaman (which many people mistakenly pronounce as “Sexy Woman”). Sacsayhuaman is a huge site on the outskirts of the city that serves as an impressive reminder of the caliber of Incan construction capabilities. Giant 150-ton blocks of perfectly aligned and carved limestone compose the seemingly endless walls and terraces of the former ceremonial site. To this day it is still used for celebrations; the annual Inti Raymi festival takes place there.
Just to show you how big a 150-ton limestone block is!
Adjacent to Sacsayhuaman is the smaller site of Q’enko, which was the next stop on our tour. It served as a religious center for the Inca and sits on a small hillside. It is far less impressive, construction-wise, to Sacsayhuaman, but there are some interesting objects, including a cave, a monolith, and a wall of 19 seats carved into stone.
Stone seats at Q'enkoQ'enko
After Q’enko, we drove a few more minutes up the road to the site of Tambomachay. Located a short walk up a hill, the small site sits adjacent to a stream and boasts several channels and small waterfalls. Legend has it that if you drink the water from these fountains, you will stay young forever. And incidentally enough, Cuzquena beer is manufactured in Cuzco with water from the same stream that feeds Tambomachay. Therefore drinking it is also supposed to keep you young. (Not that you need another reason to drink Cuzquena - it’s so good!)
The magical water at Tambomachay
Altitude markings at Tambomachay
Finally, we visited Pukapukara. which is just up the road from Tambomachay. Also known as the “red fort,” it is believed to have served as a military checkpoint and possibly toll booth for merchants traveling the Inca Road. Small, but well-constructed, the site looked beautiful in the sun-set, when the stones turned a beautiful red.
Goofing around at Puka Pukara
The City Tour was well worth it, and my dad and I were able to visit some amazing places we otherwise would have not been able to access easily if we had adventured out on our own. We were very impressed with what we saw – we certainly thought that Sacsayhuaman was unbelieveable, but it was nothing compared to what we would witness the following day at Maras and Moray. But for that story, you’ll have to check back in a few days for my next article!
Kate is a volunteer and researcher for the Karikuy Volunteer Program in Lima, Peru.
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• Thursday, August 25th, 2011
As mentioned in the previous article, my dad and I had the pleasure of attending a weaving demonstration during one of our tours. Held at a local artisans shop, the demonstration covered the multitude of processes that an artisan goes through when creating a product. Having seen so many beautiful woven items throughout my time in Peru, it was amazing to be able to learn the intricate craftsmanship and processes behind them.
Fresh Alpaca fiber
The weaving process begins with the collection of alpaca fiber (as seen above). Here, our guide wanted to demonstrate what the material looks like in it’s natural state. Here you can clearly see that, having just come from its host, the fiber is both dirty and matted; not the best condition to start using as weaving material. In order to both clean and soften the fiber, our guide slowly worked the fabric through a home-made concoction of water and a special powder (in the lower right hand bowl in the photo above). The mixture both brightened, cleaned, and softened the fiber, making it much more appealing and usable as a product. After treating the fiber, it is hung up to dry (as seen in the photo below).
Hanging the fiber to dry after treating it. (Notice how much whiter it is!)
The next step is to turn the fiber into wool. Our guide pulled out a wooden spool, and showed us how she spun the fiber – twisting it with one hand, and reeling it in on the spool with the other.
Spinning the fiber into wool
Once the spool is full, and the wool is ready, the dying process can begin. Our guide led us over to a table covered in bowls of various sizes that held different types of plants, nuts, and soils. Pulling up her sleeve, and holding out her arm, she dabbed a little water onto her skin, and then rubbed on three or four different materials from the pots one after the other. The result was a beautiful pink-red mixture. She picked up another material and added it to the color on her arm, and the mixture turned a deep red-purple.
Mixing plants and sediments to make dye
To demonstrate how many colors were possible, she lead us over to an impressive homemade hearth that had a dozen or so pots full of rich, colored water boiling on it. Behind the hearth racks of colorful wool were hanging to dry – there were at least 25 different colors on display! Our guide took her freshly spun wool and dipped half of it into one of the pots for 30 seconds. When she pulled it out, the wool was a beautiful deep red. Then she flipped the wool over, and put the other (still-white) half into a different pot. It came out a beautiful navy blue.
Multi-colored wool hanging to dry
Once the dyed wool is dry, the weaving process can begin. We were lead over to the weaving area, where at least 10 women sat weaving large shawls. The projects they were working on were in various stages of completion, so we were able to see their construction. First, wool is stretched around two posts, as seen below, in the desired pattern.
Setting up the wool on a weaving frame
Once the frame us full, the weaver pulls it out of its anchor in the ground. She then holds its vertically with one rod in her lap, and the other tied to a tree or pole. Using additional wool, she works from left to right, threading the strands horizontally over the vertical ones. After each additional line, she uses a wooden tool to push the strands together tightly and then begins the next strand. Below, a woman holds a fresh frame in her lap and prepares to begin weaving across.
Beginning the horizonal weaving
The result is a beautifully patterned finished product (take a look at the blanket below in the woman’s lap), many of which are sold in artisan markets.
Putting the finishing touches on a blanket
Regardless of which market you buy your woven products from, they are created in the same intricate way. This demonstration certainly left me with a greater appreciation for the individuals who craft those products that I so frequently buy. And it certainly makes me think twice about haggling for prices. Each piece takes hours to produce, and clearly a lot of thought and effort go into them as well.
Now every time I look at the multiple woven items I purchased on my trip, I can appreciate them that much more.
Kate is a volunteer and researcher for the Karikuy Volunteer Program in Lima, Peru.
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• Thursday, August 25th, 2011
The world grows old and every choice we make in our tiny lives makes us. I say this because even if we are thrown in this current by those random strokes of waves, we always meet some sea horses and some other mermaids on our way to the end. They make our time here worth spending. They become a kind of salt to the whole beautiful cuisine of our blue rock.
It was that easy to get lost in the mesmerizing grassy mountains of Cordillera Blanca, the open skies being honored by the ever present moon, the fresh air rustling through the brown hair of the hills, the rivers running along in the valleys always tickling the mountain feet, and the night; oh the night, when you can see each and every star twinkling back at you, blinding you with their crystal clear awesomeness; the white dusty royal path of the heavens stretching from one horizon to the other really makes you wonder about life and little green men.
Huari: At the Park
All this beauty would have been nothing if I did not have anyone amazing to share it with. Those sea horses and mermaids that made my weeks made this beauty, the lines carved on the rock of my psyche. Huari is a homely town of kind, courteous people, brave (and dumb) dogs and confused cocks with no time sense. It is a town where the young populations frolic between their schools, playgrounds, and the lively markets making the place young, hiding its 1500 year old culture with a cloak of evergreen high. It was here that Bebel Ibarra, a PhD candidate for University of Paris, and a local, started the archeological and bio-archeological project in 1997 focusing his research on the cultures of Chavin in Early Horizon (900 – 300 B.C), and Recuay in Period Early Intermediate (300 B.C – 600 A.D), the occupations during Middle Horizon (600 – 1200 A.D) which are not very well known yet; and which we were focusing our excavation research on. The Royal Inca Road goes through the territory giving an indication of its importance in the Late Horizon period.
Craniums treasured at the House in Huari
Chris with the wood..uh, and fire.
Bebel, Margarita, his wife and Rohan, their baby son are the greatest hosts there can ever be; giving, guiding, caring, and in case of the latter, trying to bite into anything that makes itself visible. After a couple of days of hanging around in Huari with Carlos, Fernando – our guides during the actual excavations as well as everything else mundane, Lindsey, Lea, Hugo and another participant, Chris, who was there at the house from before because he attended the previous session at Marcajirca and showed all the signs of the usual dusty beardy wear and tear; waiting for Carlotta and Francesca who’s luggage was adamant on not wanting to leave Paris and for Fred, Linn who missed the sketchy bus-stop Rosario in Lima all together; me, Chris, Hugo, Fernando and Carlos were driven to a school in the village of Huamparan by Bebel, about two hours drive from Huari, in order to set up things before the girls arrived the next morning. We did that and Fernando, the super cook, made us noodle soup helped of course by Chris, the fire expert. With sweet Cuzquena Negras down our throats, we played Egyptian Rat Screw (Slap Cards!) into the night.
The School and the Tents
The next morning, the tents were up and ready to let us creep into them with some broken chains and a false promise to keep us dry. At around eleven we were taken to the actual excavation site to look around, set up the initial unit grids and clean the place of thorny vegetations and rocks. After tackling and killing a lot of troublesome shrubs with the awesome machetes, our bruised hands were taken to lunch prepared by a local woman. In the afternoon the cleaning continued till we had a clear view of the units we were supposed to dig after. The rare orange clouds in the setting sky gave us permission to eat our dinner early at around six in the evening. And then playing ‘Mow Ow’ with cards lit our night before we slid into our warm sleeping bags and apparently, my snoring and sleep-talking kept people ‘entertained’ for some time later. Ah, well. Heart snores when the heart snores.
Setting up Grid Units
And this is how it began; the different layers of excavations started calling us from under the cruel ground, and with trowels, pickaxes, axes ‘the killers’, buckets, gloved hands, sunglasses, some Indiana Jones hats, we started poking the earth trying to find remnants of history, to find those people who ate, played, slept, who had real hopes, wishes, fears, lusts, problems, miracles, who made children and told them stories about their ancestors in the mountains, sacrificed animals to please their gods and in that, made a culture of their lives. All the markers are etched on the pottery they made, on the lithics they used, and the kind of housing system they had as well as on their skeletal makeups which shout out the ways of life clearly. Every morning from eight o’clock till twelve in the afternoon, when we went down to have lunch, and again, from two to five, we worked together in groups to find any of these markers. Bebel had planned all the amazingly detailed lectures regarding the history and culture of the related civilizations interspersed with this actual work.
An Aerial view of the Site
Axe-head, my precious!
Me, Lea, Hugo and Linn on Our respective Units!
We found lots of pottery from that period as well as some pottery that dated way back to Recuays, and also lots of stone artifacts like arrow heads, grinding stones, axe heads. The architectural findings were less direct in pointing at the practices of those people because we had very less time to dig up everything. We were digging around a circular plaza at what was a series of structures. One of the structures was definitely bigger than the others; it had a defined large entrance. This is where Fred and Lindsey who were digging at the two units found a couple of tombs with some pottery as well as some human teeth in them, but no bones though. Well, time does work in mysterious ways.
Bebel Barbecueing
In the Recuay Tomb
28th of July is the Independence Day for Peru. Even though we were far away from the celebration of lights and colors in Lima and in other cities in Peru, Bebel and Margarita made this day really awesome for us at the school. We had an open air barbecue and an open air lunch with beers and coke (which Chris missiled on us sending Carlos into a laughing trip every time he looked at him after that for some days). We had a free afternoon that day. We set out for walking around the village. There is a site of Recuay tombs at about 15 minutes walk from the school. Crawling through the labyrinths, we spent the remaining day naming each other after characters from LOTR. I was Sam. Little things matter so much in life, it is true. Like Chris’ pancakes with Lindsey’s apple syrup. And the drunken Pisco night spent playing Mow. And those movie nights. And the second last night when it rained, nay poured and when our party tent failed us completely. Ah, the stories are always going to follow us, I am glad.
Linn's Swedish pancakes with Lindsey's Apple syrup
The last day at the school, 3rd of August was Chris’ 21stbirthday. Linn made us her Swedish pancakes brightening our day with her amazing cooking. We went to the excavation site and covered every unit with thorns, soil and stones again; the final rite in an archeological dig. The combi was there to pick us up at four in the evening. The Birthday night was celebrated with the tastiest Pollo a la Brasa I’ve ever had, some Cuzquena Negras, and a cake with a tiny candle on it and a knife in it. And the season was nearly at its end.
Fred and Lindsey's treasures
Dr. John Rick explaning the canal system
Excavations at Chavin
Next couple of days, we finished all the lab-work which involved cleaning and washing our finds at the house in Huari, labeling each and every piece, and drawing the borders of pottery into what the original pottery must have looked like. After that, we had a free day when Bebel had arranged a trip to Chavin de Huantar (to which I’d already been to on my trip to Huaraz). His trip was so much more detailed with talks with Dr. John Rick, from Department of Anthropology at Stanford who is also the Director of the archeological excavation at the Chavin ceremonial site. He walked us through the whole labyrinthine canal system the Chavin people are famous for, the result of interaction of Recuay and Chavin cultures at the site during different time periods, the mummified remains of a mother and her four children found near the Tello pyramid here collaborating the local legend of the poisoning of an army platoon by a local woman who said, when asked to eat the food prepared by her first before feeding the platoon, “Even my children will eat the food with me, if you have any doubts.” We saw many things and heard many stories normally not open for tourists. Ah, well, one of the perks for being an archeologist; or being with an archeologist.
Carlotta and Francesca making Pasta!!
Linn making yummy Swedish meat balls
The last week was spent saying a lot of good-byes and eating a lot international cuisine because each one of us was given a night when we had to cook something from our own cuisine; Chris, Lindsey, Fred and Linn left for going back home; then Lea and Hugo left for Lima; and finally Carlotta and Francesca left as well to go and tour around Peru; I was left alone with Carlos and Fernando at the house finishing the Autocad drawings for the whole site we worked on. On my last day in Huari, Bebel took us to a nearby lake called Purhuay, a beautiful place surrounded by pine and eucalyptus trees, nestled in a valley filled with archeological sites. After eating Trucha Frita for the lunch, at five in the evening, I had to be ready to say my final ‘adios’ there.
Lake Purhuay
How can you thank such amazing people for giving you the experience of a lifetime? I guess, you can only keep their spirit alive in your hearts and live your life with that flame. Still, in the end, parting is sad. The music of El Condor Pasa in my ears told me harshly that it was time to stop being Peruvian. The sun was burning the last clouds orange in a desperate and yet passionate attempt to stay alive. And the earth was climbing sneakily under my feet. It was time, finally.
The program Parag worked with is called Huari-Ancash Archaeological and Bioarchaeological Project 2011.
Parag is a volunteer and researcher for the Karikuy Volunteer Program in Lima, Peru.
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• Friday, August 12th, 2011
When planning your stay in Cuzco, it can be overwhelming to pick out activities to fill the limited time you are there. There is a multitude of different tours and activities offered, and it’s hard to decide which ones are worth doing because they all look amazing! When my dad and I were setting up our trip, we had no idea what to choose, so Julio simplified the process by recommending a few of the most popular tours, and also one a little less traveled: Moray and Maras.
View of the Cordillera Vilcanota
Our trip began with an hour’s busride up upwards through the Cordillera Vilcanota – a beautiful mountain range that includes Ausangate, the highest peak in Peru. The journey took us through beautiful valleys and small towns that afforded stunning views of snow-capped peaks in the distance. After only a half an hour, we stopped briefly in a small market to look at some local artisan crafts and drink some coca tea.
Wool preparation demonstration
During our brief stop, we were given a demonstration by some of the local woman who created the beautiful shawls and bags we were viewing. They gave an intimate and extremely detailed demonstration of the entire process behind traditional weaving – from harvesting the wool to putting the finishing touches on a piece. It was incredible. (So incredible that I’ll be posting a whole blog post dedicated to the subject on Thursday.)
After our stop at the artisans market, we continued another half hour and arrived at our first destination: Moray.
Main terrace complex at Moray
Consisting of three concentric circles composed of terraces, Moray served as an agricultural complex. The site was carefully crafted in a prime location that offered specific sun and wind exposure, allowing a temperature variance of almost 30 degrees Fahrenheit between the top and bottom of the terraces. Genious!
We spent about 45 minutes traversing the multiple terraces. It was hard work! While (thankfully) there were stone steps so that we could climb between terraces, they were huge and the altitude made it more difficult than it looked.
From far away, the steps don't look that bad…
…but when you're trying to climb them, it's a whole different story. Taking a breather between staircases.
Despite the difficulty of climbing between the terraces, it was well worth it! The site was far more amazing than I had expected – and these pictures hardly do it justice. Standing at the rim of the terraces, you have amazing views of the Cordillera, and the people down below look like ants. And when you’ve made it down into the center of the complexes and you’re looking up, you realize how it feels to be one of those ants you were just previously looking down on.
Moving on from Moray, our next stop was the salt ponds of Maras.
View of Maras from the entry road
Located just a few minutes drive from Moray, Maras was used by the Inca to cultivate salt. Compartmentalized terraces form small areas that were supplied with fresh water from underground springs which the Inca channeled into them. Naturally salty, this water was then evaorated, leaving behind the salt. Today, locals are free to make use of the ponds, and need only to apply with the cooperative that oversees one in order to claim a pond as their own. Salt is also available for purchase at the artisan market that marks the entrance to the site.
Climbing on the salt flats
Both Moray and Maras are excellent examples of how the Inca made use of natural resources to benefit themselves. In the case of Moray, natural depressions were turned into highly-functional temperature-controlled agricultural terraces. And at Maras, naturally salty springs were manipulated to yield an abundance of salt to serve as an important cooking resource.
Both sites, in addition to providing intrigue and a lesson on Inca construction, are overwhelmingly large and beautiful. Hidden in the Cordillera, they are not easy accessable, and therefore not visited as often as other sites in the Cuzco area. This also means that there are far less crowds than you would encounter at, say, a site like Sacsayhuaman or Pisac. There’s really no reason not to visit these two amazing sites should your travels take you to Cuzco, just do it – let Julio book your tour!!!
Kate is a volunteer and researcher for the Karikuy Volunteer Program in Lima, Peru.
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• Wednesday, July 27th, 2011
After spending some time in the desert, I was ready to move on and experience the mountains that Peru is so famous for. Taking Julio’s advice, I booked a daytime bus for Sunday (rather than an overnight) on Transportes Linea from Trujillo to Cajamarca so that I could witness the beautiful scenery. It was truly remarkable; stunning mountains as far as the eye can see, small towns perched on the hillsides, and beautiful lakes. This is what I had been waiting for. Arriving in Cajamarca at night, without hotel reservations, was not as distressing as I had initially foreseen. Instructing my taxi driver to drop me off in the Plaza de Armas, I stepped out of the car onto a street lined with more hostels, hotels, and tourism agencies than I could count. Even at night, the view was beautiful!
Monasterio de San Francisco at night
Taking a few minutes to look over my options, I decided on the Hostal Santa Apolonia; a two-star hotel with a modern and clean-looking entrance. I chose wisely. I managed to get a single room for two nights for a total of 100 soles (about US). The room wasn’t anything special; your standard single bed, private bathroom, nightstand, and TV. But it was somewhere cheap, clean, and safe to stay, and for that I was grateful.
Monday morning I woke up early and met up Jacqui, who had just arrived from Trujillo via night bus. We ate a quick breakfast and made our way over to Baños del Inca Tours, which I had discovered the night before, where we signed up to visit Cumbe Mayo. The tour cost 20 soles (about US), and included transportation, a guide (Spanish-speaking only. If you want and English-speaking guide in Cajamarca, it’ll cost you a little extra since Gringos aren’t regular tourists to this area), site entrance ticket, and a two-hour tour of the site. Not bad!
After traveling up some steep switchbacks by van, we stopped at a lookout point so we could view city. Boy, was it beautiful!
Cajamarca viewpoint!
When we finally reached Cumbe Mayo (about 40 minutes later) we encountered stunning views of natural rock formations. The tour took us over 2 miles; through a cave, past numerous petroglyphs, an Incan aqueduct, women in local dress, herds of sheep, and some very interestingly shaped rocks!
Cumbe Mayo
Coming out of the cave!
Walking next to the aqueduct
Our tour group (Jacqui and I are on the left)
Walking next to the aquaduct
It took about an hour and a half to hike the 2 miles, mostly because the guide stopped us often to point out interesting landmarks, petroglyphs, or rock formations. It was a beautiful day, and there was a nice breeze, so the hike was definitely enjoyable. Be prepared though; the altitude (Cajamarca is at round 3,000 meters , or 9,000 feet) leaves one out of breath while climbing staircases and hillsides alike. So bring lots of water, and take it slow! After the hike, it was great to relax on the bus ride back to the city.
One of the great things about tours in Cajamarca, is that they are timed so that you can do more than one a day. Our Cumbe Mayo tour lasted from 9:30 am until about 1:30 pm. The next set of tours didn’t begin until 3:00pm, so we had about an hour and a half to kill. We wisely spent it enjoying lunch at a local eatery, where I tried Lomo Saltada for the first time. It was delicious!
For our second tour of the day, we chose the Ventanillas de Cajamarca. Since there is not a whole lot to see at the Ventanillas, the tour also included stops at 3 other local locations too. The first was a local wooden bridge that spanned the “Old River” of Cajamarca. It swayed precariously as the dozen or so of us cautiously made our way across, and from it we had a view of the rows and rows of colorful laundry handing to dry by the riverbank.
"Old River"
Second, we made our way to the Ventanillas themselves. Carved into a rock wall, these square “windows” were used by the native Cajamarca people to house the bones of their dead. Only a short ride away from the city, and a quick hike up a small hillside, the Ventanillas were both impressive and chilling at the same time.
Ventanillas de Cajamarca
Next, we visited an impressive botanical garden in the Baños del Inca district. All types of beautiful flowers bloomed around us, and a half dozen workers were spread out in the garden, doing some heavy duty gardening. Afterwards, we made our way to the garden’s shop, where we could buy a wide array of different local items; scarves, hats, etc.
Some beautiful lilacs
Lastly, we visited the Queso “Los Alpes” dairy. Known for its high volume of cows, Cajamarca is known for itsmilk, manjar blanco, and cheese production. A local dairy, Los Alpes prides itself in using traditional Swiss Alpine techniques to make its cheese. Our guide lead us through the dairy where we got view the production and storage rooms. Afterwards, we crossed the courtyard to the dairy’s shop, where we tried different cheeses and had the opportunity to purchase some. As delicious as everything looked, I had no way of transporting it back to Lima with me so, sadly, I didn’t purchase any.
Production room at Queso Los Alpes
Upon returning to Cajamarca after our second tour, Jacqui and I set out to find dinner. We decided upon a restaurant attached to a local 3-star hotel, figuring it had to be good since it was managed by a hotel. Wrong. Hands down the worst dining experience I’ve had yet in Peru. Our food took over an hour to arrive, as did our drinks. And although the waitress seated us outside herself, it seemed as though she forgot about us – rarely making an appearance through the hour ordeal.
Despite this minor setback, the evening ended well – we sat down for (better) drinks at SkyeBar, a local lounge. The drinks were delicious, and the atmosphere was very relaxed, so it was a great end to a long day. Afterwards, we turned in early so we could get some rest before day 2 of sight-seeing.
Check back tomorrow for Part II of my Cajamarca adventure, when I discuss the city’s more local attractions!
Kate is a volunteer and researcher for the Karikuy Volunteer Program in Lima, Peru.
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• Monday, July 25th, 2011
Last weekend (June 24-26), I competed in the 2011 Peruvian National Short-Course Master’s Swim Meet. I’ve been swimming for my entire life, but never really thought I’d be able to say that I competed in a national competition outside of my home country! Near the end of my exchange last April, I found a small group of master’s swimmers that were training at a pool close to my house. When I left the country two months later, that group had doubled in size. When I came back eleven months later, I found that group to be almost three times bigger! Out of a group of fifteen masters-level swimmers, about nine show up any given day, bright and early at 7 am to practice. We belong to the “Aqualab” club, which also has a group of swimmers (mostly older women) who practice at another pool in San Isidro. I’d say we were one of the bigger clubs at the competition.
Most of the Aqualab Club that was at the competition
Swimming is not a widely practiced sport in Peru, which makes for a less competitive, more friendly atmosphere. Most of the competitors who have been swimming for any more than two years seemed to know most of the other competitors in their division. Within the three days I spent at the pool, I conversed with just about everyone in my division (women 18-24) as well (not a difficult feat, considering there were less than a dozen). This also makes it possible for anyone and everyone to go to the national championship, no matter where it is. Most of the competitors were from Lima, but there were also swimmers from Trujillo and Arequipa. We took advantage of the vacation to get to know the city as well! [See Kate's Blog for a more traditional vacation in Trujillo!]
The San Borja Group at the Plaza de Armas of Trujillo
This friendly atmosphere was also apparent in the “Dinner of Friendship and Good Sportsmanship” which took place Saturday night. It was held at the same country club that we spent the day swimming at, but at 9:30 pm in the grand pavilion. The dinner itself seemed remarkably small by swimmers standards (most of us ended up going to by cookies and other more filling foods later), but the friendship and sportsmanship was definitely present.
Dancing around 11 pm the night before a competition!
As with most Peruvian parties, there was a ‘Show’ of sorts, complete with music ranging from Kumbia to Reggaeton to Hora Loca (crazy hour), all of which sung by the same guy, minus a few Karaoke tunes sung by various members of the swimming community. There were people of all ages and clubs dancing until 11:30, when most people decided it would be better to go rest for their races the next day. My group obviously didn’t care too much about those races, since we all stayed out ‘till 3 am. At 2:30 am, a few of us decided to invade the Quinciñera (huge sweet 15 Birthday celebration) that was happening on the other side of the club. We only managed to stay for a few songs of “La Hora Loca” before the mother of the birthday girl yelled at us to “get going.”
Can you spot the the swimmers? Hint, we got kicked out a few minutes later for being under-dressed.
Despite our late night, the majority of my team did well in their races on Sunday. The top 5 places for the Men’s “technical mark” (award for coming closest to the world record) trophy were won by my team, as well as 3 of the top 10 for the women’s trophy. Arriba Aqualab!
The Group with our Medals
Coach Victor & I
The weekend ended with a trip to a tourist restaurant and a visit to Huanchaco beach! It was beautiful. We arrived an hour before sunset (5ish) and stayed chilling in the sand until the majority of the group had to go to airport to return to Lima and I had to find the bus station to Cajamarca to meet up with Kate for another great adventure! [To be continued!]
The Group in Huanchaco Beach
Jacqui is a volunteer and researcher for the Karikuy Volunteer Program in Lima, Peru.
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• Thursday, July 21st, 2011
When I last left off, I had just detailed how Jacqui and I spent the day hiking through the amazing site of Cumbe Mayo, and visiting the equally impressive Ventanillas de Cajamarca. For day two of our stay in the beautiful mountain city, we decided to forego some of the other full-day tour options to check out some of the more local (and walkable) attractions Cajamarca had to offer. Our day started early – 6 am. When I woke up the sun had not yet made it over the tall peaks surrounding the city, and as I got my things together I was able to watch the sky turn from a deep navy blue to a beautiful early-morning light pink. It was amazing.
The reason for getting up at such an early hour? We were headed to the famed Baños del Inca, one of the better-known attractions that Cajamarca has to offer. The Baños, naturally heated hot springs located only a mile or two outside the city, are said to have been used by Atahualpa (the Incan ruler) and his family. They are also rumored to have healing powers, although you’ll have to experience the baños yourself to determine that one. Hundreds of years later, the water from the hot springs has been channeled into an olympic-sized pool and several small private baths for the public to enjoy. It’s said that the water is the warmest early in the morning (and the crowds aren’t so big), which is why we chose such an early hour to depart. Don’t have a bathing suit or towel with you? No problem! There are several vendors in front of the entrance to the baños who can sell you one for a decent price.
Steam rising from the hot springs
Courtyard and gardens of the Baños
Once inside the complex, Jacqui and I took pictures of the steam rising off the pools of water, and the beautiful garden that occupied the center of the complex. Then, for only a few soles, we got our own private room where we enjoyed soaking in the warm water for almost 2 hours. It was glorious. After our relaxing soak in the baños, we headed back to our respective hotels to change out of our suits and take a quick siesta. We reconvened at lunch time to have a quick bite. I tried Lomo Saltado, a popular Peruvian dish, for the first time and really enjoyed it!
Lomo Saltado
After lunch we headed over to Atahualpa’s ransom room; also another popular tourist attraction in Cajamarca. Carefully secluded behind huge wooden doors and situated under a protective tent roof, the small building looks so simple for having such an incredible past. It was here that the Incan ruler Atahualpa was held prisoner by the Spanish. It is said that this was possibly also the place of his death – a mysterious red stain is visible on the floor of the building.
Atahualpa's Ransom Room
Red stain on the floor of Atahualpa's Ransom Room
After touring the Ransom Room, we walked a block over to the Cajamarca Cultural Center. In the middle of a large plaza, men and women in traditional highland garb were playing Peruvian music, and engaging each other in conversation. In an adjacent room was a beautiful exhibit displaying the work of some of the countries finest silversmiths in the most intricate designs.
Beautiful metal work
Even more beautiful metal work
Next we visited the the archaeology museum which housed findings from both Cumbe Mayo and the Ventanillas, as well as other local sites. The museum is in a somewhat poorly-kept but still stunningly beautiful old building with vaulted ceilings and faded murals. It gives the artifacts a haunting backdrop.
Beautiful old window in the archaeology museum
Child mummy
Fragmented skulls put back together
Right down the street was the Convent of San Francisco. Much smaller than the one in Lima, but still just as interesting, it allowed us to know more about the lives of the monks who lived there. Dressing rooms and personal quarters all lay as if untouched; rucksacks still hanging on their pegs, writing desks and books all undisturbed. It was like looking directly at the past. It was incredible. Unfortunately we weren’t allowed to take pictures inside.
Our final destination of the day was Iglesia Santa Apolonia and the Inca Throne. Traversing up some 200+ stairs to the small chapel, we took a minute or two to take in the incredible view (and catch our breath). Then for the meager price of 1 sole we entered the gardens that topped the hill in order to work our way up to the Inca Throne. A stone slab sitting atop the hill, it offered beautiful views of the city and the entire valley, and was truly worth the long (and tiring) climb to the top. Breathtaking views complimented by lovely flower arrangements, fountains, and a light breeze made for a refreshing viewpoint.
Iglesia Santa Apolonia
View from the gardens below the Inca Throne
View from the Inca Throne
All in all, I was entranced by Cajamarca. It definitely is the most beautiful city I have seen thus far in Peru. The combination of archaeological sites and the immense natural beauty that surrounds the city makes for a scenic and unforgettable trip. This is one city that should be on your must-see list when you visit Peru!
Kate is a volunteer and researcher for the Karikuy Volunteer Program in Lima, Peru.
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• Tuesday, July 19th, 2011
After Kate’s recent debacle with the local muggers, I have been left alone in the house with Julio for the last five days of my stay here at his house. As easy it was to deal with the sudden alone time, I had been inkling to venture out into the city and get me some of that urbane Peru.
At this time of the year, Lima is a city of cold humid air almost always blanketed by grey clouds. If you go out in the afternoon, the wind follows you, at first tickling and teasing your skin making its way to the shivery possession it craves which is taken over by that cold misty night, so stagnant that it makes you numb. This wintery play always gets me very hopeful, about everything.
To share this amusing high, I went to the post office in Central Lima to send postcards to my friends in India; with Julio, of course, teaching me how to catch a local ‘combi’ which is kind of small bus ferrying passengers within the city. Central Lima is the oldest part of Lima. With its colonial buildings, the huge French influenced plazas, the beautiful wooden miradors (balconies) in the small streets, the grand churches, the elegant horse carriages, and the very easily accessible presidential palace standing tall at the San Martin plaza, Central Lima changed my view of the ‘culture of Peru’ from the Incan as well as pre-Incan poetic and epic cultism to an artist’s dream brought on by the bloody Spanish conquest. It’s funny how beauty has so many varied perpetrators.
Plaza de San Martin, Lima
After a bit of tummy filling with a Hamburger, Pastrami, and one Boston Manjar donut, I was brought back to the safe abode by Julio who also enjoyed a donut and a pudding with me. Ah well. Such is the life of a food connoisseur (read glutton) surrounded by the mouth watering food Lima has to offer.
The day after, I had made plans to meet up with Lea, one of my dig-mates from France, who was living in a hotel in Miraflores, a beautiful suburb which I hoped to give a visit to. I decided to be a little braver this time and try a bus all by myself. Julio guided me in theory, of course. Bus transport in Lima is surprisingly cheap. Only one and a half soles and I was at the Avenida Angamos Oeste from Avenida Arequipa. My target was a three decade old excavation site of Huaca Pucllana, an administrative and ceremonial centre of the then coastal Lima culture; later on conquered by Wari culture; with its adobe and clay pyramids as well as those very well made reproductions indicating the ancient lifestyles. Along with a museum, the place offers a guided tour of the site in English. Through the unfinished excavations, our dramatic guide took us on a journey from the acute sense of civil engineering of the coastal culture, the graves of Wari people in fetal position relating the previous life to rebirth, to the naked facts and rules of human sacrifices followed by the both of these cultures.
Huaca Pucllana, Miraflores: Overview
Through the picturesque Parque Kennedy, surrounded by a hub of restaurants, bars and other entertainment places, I walked to my pre-decided rendezvous with Lea. She is a very sweet girl who doesn’t speak English a lot and not very well either. So our evening was spent in awkward silences broken by formal conversations followed by the drunken giggling talks brought on by beers and Pisco Sours and then stuffing our tummies at Burger King. It started to drizzle when I reached home after dropping her at her hotel that night.
After all the colonial architecture and the pre-Incan history, I wanted to taste the music of Lima. But alas, the penas where regional folkloric and criollo music is played are mostly closed on Sundays. So it was by the stroke of luck that Wong, a Chinese-Peruvian supermarket franchise, had decided to hold Gran Corso, their 24th Independence Day Float parade on 18th of July exactly ten days before the actual Independence Day of Peru providing me an opportunity to have an experience of a lifetime.
Waiting for Wong's Gran Corso to start
Cultures from all over Peru, current as well as ancient, gather on this parade, borne by a huge hot air balloon with ‘Wong’ written on it in huge red script, to show off their heritage. This is basically done through advertising of different brands, products mixed with performances by different schools, colleges and artists.
One of the many Culturals
It’s like all the communities bringing a part of their as well as their ancestors’ lifestyles to the stage in celebration of the glorious Independence Day.
The world is your cartoon!
And what a celebration it was! From dragons to little cartoon characters dancing away happily, from disciplined bands to erratically produced urban music groups, from hip-hop to salsa, from babies singing rock songs to folkloric and criollo music being performed by groups from Puno, Trujillo, Cuzco, Arequipa, other coastal as well as highland regions and of course, Lima; from Dinosaurs to Bugs, from tribal dances to post-modern ones, from pirates to ps3 soldiers to gorgeous models to break-dancers to acrobats to fairies. All of this was topped off by the awe inspiring fireworks at the end which filled the sky with innumerable lights. For the first time in my life, I thought standing up for something for about five hours was worth it. I collected some video shots of this grand function till my camera memory failed me and have posted it in the following video.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=uM5bn4sIM5Q
It’s been rich five days here and now I am ready to embark on my first ever archaeological dig at Huari. But this past week has created a glorious spot in my heart for the city I’m in right now. Lima is unique. When people talk of Lima, they are talking exclusively of only Lima, not Peru, but Lima; its history, its culture, its women, its streets, its road side graffiti, its bullfights, its cuisine, its youth, its football. They belong to Lima alone. This is a city of confident smart men and wise flamboyant women. This is a city of style.
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